If you have containers that can withstand the cold Michigan winters, they can be dressed up for the holidays this month, using small evergreen plants, or boughs from evergreens simply stuck into the potting mix.  The evergreen boughs will stay green until February!  For more ideas and materials, join me November 20 at my Holiday Container class, discussed above.
 
I've also found some cute Dwarf Alberta Spruce trees and other nice evergreens on sale at places like Lowe's or Home Depot (the only time I'll shop those big box nurseries) this time of year.  They have done well year after year in my client's containers where they get watered regularly all winter.  This front porch container will get changed from its fall display to a nice holiday display (see picture above) after Thanksgiving.  Great additions include: 

Cut back Hostas and other plants that are typically eaten by slugs, and remove the debris from the bed, which can provide a cozy place for slugs to spend the winter and start breeding in the spring.
 
Before cutting back other perennials, check to make sure they aren't evergreen. If they are still green today, after all the cold weather we've had, then they are worth leaving in the garden for a bit of color when the snow melts.  (If you're still not sure, reply to this email; I'd be happy to help!)  Other plants can be left alone despite being brown, if they provide winter interest and/or seeds for birds.  Pictured above are some Heuchera in my own, with a few Pansies (the green plants) that are taking a break from bloooming.
 
Plants can also be left standing if you run out of time to clean up the perennial bed this fall.  They will continue to decompose all winter, and provide needed nutrients to the soil.
 
Removal of leaves from the beds depends on the type of leaves that you have in your yard.  Maple leaves tend to form a thick mat that prevents moisture from getting into the soil.  They should be shredded before using as mulch in the garden.  Oak leaves, on the other hand, are wonderful mulch without shredding.
 
Adding mulch and other organic matter at this time of year is a great way to improve the soil in your beds, and minimize the damage of roots heaving above ground during freeze and thaw cycles.  For free compost/mulch, contact your city about the availability of compost made from the yard waste bags you leave on the curb every week.
 
Trees and Shrubs:  Plant new trees and shrubs up until the time that the ground freezes, but be careful that you are not purchasing the dregs of the remaining stock, just because it's marked down 50%!  Be sure to keep the roots moist until the ground freezes.
  

The two pictures above show the changes that can be performed by transplanting later in the year.  The photograph on the left is the "before", the one on the right is the "after" taken right after planting earlier this week.  While the plants on the right are going into their dormant period, they are set to look awesome in the spring.  (Watch this spot for an updated photograph next May/June.)

 

The only plant left from the original landscape is the Yew at the back corner.  The tree is a Nyssa sylvatica (Sour Gum, Black Gum), which has an awesome fall color.  The larger shrub to the right is a Hamamelis (Witch Hazel) that will bloom beautifully in late winter.  The five smaller shrubs are a Clethra with a nice pink bloom that will thrive in this wet spot.  There is an ornamental grass planted between the tree and the Yew shrub, but it has been cut back.  A Miscanthus 'Morning Light' was chosen for this spot, which will add some pretty fine texture to the area next year.  The smaller plants along the front are a white flowering Chelone that are finished blooming this season, but will be back next August.  The shrub with the reddish leaves to the left of the Yew is a Physocarpus 'Diablo', and the roses are a 'Knockout Cherry' that you can see blooms until it gets a hard frost.  More information on any of the above plants can be found at Google.com.

 

One of the most beneficial steps in winterizing the garden is fertilizing evergreen trees and shrubs in November, with a granular, slow-release product, such as Hollytone.  Follow the directions on the package.  Spread the fertilizer at the drip-line (not around the trunk) of the plant, and water the evergreens until the ground freezes, especially if they are new to your garden. 
An anti-desiccant, such as Wilt-Pruf, can be applied to evergreens to assist with moisture retention.  It's not a perfect solution, since it needs to be reapplied mid-winter, and is tricky to apply.  Follow the directions on the package, which include specifics regarding the outside temperature. 
 
Prune deciduous shrubs, if necessary, once the leaves have fallen, and they are in their dormant state.  Be careful about the variety, and that you are not pruning off next year's flower buds.  If you aren't sure, feel free to ask me!

 

In my own backyard, shown to the right, the Sweet Autumn Clematis is finished blooming, but the Burning Bush still has green toward the bottom, and the ornamental grass in the corner is a huge 12 feet tall.  The neighbor's Maple tree is the highlight of the view though, with its bright orange leaves.
 
Protect your trees and shrubs from critters.  Rabbits have been known to eat the bark off of young trees, and girdle them before they can even get acclimated to their new home.  A tall fence of chicken wire staked around the trunk of young trees can be used, if care is taken not to disturb the roots with the stakes.  Another option is a plastic product called "Arbor Wrap" that is a safe, protective device for the trunks of newly planted trees.
 
Many shrubs are food for deer and rabbits in the winter, and a shield to keep them away from the branches can keep them from chomping them to the ground.  If you are unsure which plants in your yard might be susceptible, send me a list.  I would be happy to look them up!
 
Roses:  Clean up any fallen leaves to help control black spot and powdery mildew.  Both of these diseases can over-winter in the soil.  Do not prune your roses unless the shrub has a long, unruly branch; this should wait until spring.  It's also too early to add the collar that holds a protective layer of mulch.  That should be done after the ground freezes to prevent rodents from making a nest in your rose's root zone.  Details will be included in next month's task list.  For great information, go to Nancy Lindley's web site:  www.greatlakesroses.com.